Riunite, Night Train, Bartles & Jaymes, Mad Dog 20/20: that may be the wine list you’d expect from any dive “worthy” of the name, but it ain’t the one you deserve — or the one you’re getting. Faux-lowbrow concept aside, this outpost of a Texas chain doesn’t dumb it down or slum it up in the least, offering a two-page mix of California labels like Corison and Scholium Project, Old World wines such as Nahe, Germany’s Dönnhoff, and Piedmontese producer Pio Cesare, and rising stars from Musar — in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley — to Quinta do Crasto out of the Douro in Portugal. There’s also plenty of bubbly to go with your fried chicken, the sommeliers’ secret handshake of pairings. Check out the chalkboard labeled “Yesterday’s Favorites” for great deals too. Read more.